Anjediva - 2

 Francisco S. d’Abreu

[TGF foreword: The Island of Anjediva is the site of one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in the East.  For centuries, Goan Catholics from all over the world traveled to the island to worship at the church. Without consultation, the Indian Navy has banned any further access to the church after early 2003. It cites security reasons. India has displayed callous disregard of the feelings of Goan Catholics by allowing the churches on the island to disintegrate]


Part 1: The Hindu Past  followed by Arab Muslim presence

The Portuguese Interlude:

This “interlude” started with the landing of Vasco da Gama and his fleet at Angediva. 

The diary of the great navigator leaves no doubt that indeed he touched Angediva. In few words he gives us the topography of the island as “terra alta, muito graciosa e de bons ares” (a high land, very gracious and of good air). He however goes wrong in mentioning that the archipelago consisted of six islands, when in reality they were five. 

The purpose of his touching the island was to rest and collect fuel and material. On their landing, however, they found a young man who showed them a fountain between two rocks. When asked whether he was a Christian or a Muslim, he replied that indeed he was a follower of Christ and was happy to know that his guests were of the same faith. 

The day after their arrival, 21st September, 1498, they were visited by four men who brought them pumpkins and other fruits. Vasco da Gama, who was keenly interested in spice trade, asked them if they knew of the existence of ginger and “canela” (cinnamon). They replied that “canela” there was in plenty but that they knew not of any other spice. The great Portuguese captain sent with them two of his men, who on their return brought two branches of this tree. The local people, noticing their interest in this spice, informed that in fact they had a lot of dried “canela”, of which they were prepared to bring some samples. Vasco da Gama was in fact well received by the people, who supplied him with cows, pigs and even chicken. 

It is clear that Angediva, besides its strategic importance, provided from ancient times a good resting place for sailors moving along the Karwar coast. 

The mention of cinnamon and good water might have made it more attractive for the traders, to which class the Muslims belonged. 

While Gama’s fleet was at Angediva, some ships were noticed. Suspicious of some betrayal, Gama boarded his ship and sent one of the soldiers on a boat to inspect the arriving ships. On return the sailor informed the number of ships (8) and their size. The captain ordered that they be sunk. These however noticed the movement of the Portuguese ships and fled towards the coast. In the process they were caught in the rocks and sank. Gama was right, for the ships, besides bringing a little food, were mostly loaded with arms. The next day, while the Portuguese were resting at Angediva, seven men came in a sail boat to see Gama and informed him that the ships noticed the day before had been sent from Calicut with instructions to sink and destroy the Portuguese fleet. 

Gaspar da Gama 

After the above incident, and probably for reasons of safety, Vasco da Gama transferred his fleet to another island nearby where the ships Gabriel and Berio were being cleaned. 

At this time the island was visited by a man of about 40 years of age, who after paying respects to Gama mentioned that he was a Christian who had come from the West to India at a very tender age and, though outwardly converted to Islam, continued to be in spirit a Christian. He could speak Venetian with utmost proficiency and his name was Mahmet. He further stated that he was now serving a powerful prince who had an army of 40,000 men on horse. His master had heard of the arrival of “Francos” (Frenchmen) and he himself was eager to hear the language of his country after such a long time. He thus came to offer on behalf of his ruler all the help in terms of ships and food which they might require. At first Vasco da Gama did believe him but the general behaviour of this stranger created suspicion among his crew. Vasco da Gama’s brother Paulo tried to enquire about this person, from some Indians, and it was then known that he was a spy. Arrested and beaten, he confessed that his mission was to study the Portuguese fleet, and that all around were innumerable ships awaiting the Lusitanians. The aim of the trap was to defeat and arrest them so that, as prisoners, they could serve as good warriors. The prince for whom this stranger was working was perhaps a Goan ruler, a feudatory of Adil Shah of Bijapur. 

This foreigner and his origin have been the subject of various controversies on the part of various historians. It appears however that the man was a Jew who had converted to Islam. 

Arrested and taken to Portugal, he was converted to the Christian faith, having been named Gaspar, after one of the three kings of the East who visited the Christ Baby at Bethlehem (the “Magi” or “Reis Magos”). And, as Vasco da Gama was his godfather, his surname too was Gama, he thus being known as Gaspar da Gama. 

Vasco da Gama mentions in his diary that his stay at Angediva was of 12 days, and that there he ate a lot of fish, pumpkin and other vegetables. As regards the fish, it was supplied by fishermen who lived on the banks of a river, a mile distant, at a place named Cintacora. 

Having cleaned his ships and taken a lot of water for the return journey, the Portuguese fleet left the island on 5th October, 1498. 

Thus ended the first contact between the island and the Portuguese. 

But this was not the only visit of  Gama to Angediva. As a matter of fact, during his second visit to India in 1502, with the ships full of gold from the tributes of rulers in Eastern Africa, once again the great navigator touched Angediva. 

From hence forth, this little island, strategically placed, turned out to be a main base for all the Portuguese fleets operating along the Konkan and Malabar coasts. 

Part 3:  Angediva and The First Viceroy D. Francisco de Almeida

Francisco S. d’Abreu
October 26, 2002

Read : The Travesty at Anjediva

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