Remembering to forget

Frederick Noronha

Vasco da Gama's 500th anniversary touches a raw nerve in Goa.
 

Suddenly, the Portuguese are big news in their former colony of Goa, now better known as a tourist destination and a one-time hippy hangout. But Lisbon is unlikely to be flattered. The very thought of commemorating the fifth centenary of Vasco da Gama's arrival on India's west coast has had people agitated. Swaths of newsprint have been consumed by the subject.

India's youngest ex-colony is looking over its shoulder at its long, and often uneasy, Portuguese past. In the process, Vasco da Gama's 1998 quincentennial is taking on shades of the Columbus controversy which engulfed North and South America in 1992.

Like any historical figure, Vasco da Gama is understood (and misunderstood) in diverse ways. Lionised by his countrymen, he has his skeptics elsewhere. Did he undertake pioneering "discoveries", as Portugal would have it even today, or was Vasco da Gama merely the "first European to travel by sea to India", which is how he is described in the US-published Concise Columbia Encyclopedia, which goes on: "He established Portuguese power in India and Africa. His methods were harsh, and he was not a good administrator. He was sent back to India as a viceroy in 1524, but soon died."

Historian Sanjay Subramanyam is rather severe in his evaluation of the Portuguese explorer in a timely book that is just out (see following review). This obscure nobleman from the Alentejo was transformed into the Great Argonaut mainly through the creation of legend, writes Subramanyam. Vasco da Gama, who today is known as part of the generation of great discoverers along with Magellan, Cabral and Columbus, was one thing in real life and quite another in the myth that survives.

Not that there are no mixed feelings in Goa. While some insist on his greatness, others point out that the sea trade in the Indian Ocean was there centuries before the arrival of the Portuguese navigator. While some Goans say Vasco da Gama is a "historical personage" who cannot be wished away, there are others who deride him as someone sent East to loot and extend the empire. Most displeased are the freedom-fighters who helped free Goa from the Portuguese (the territory joined India in 1962); the planned quincentennial celebration, they maintain, questions the very bona fide of their activism against colonialism.

While it is not hard to understand why the memory of Vasco da Gama evokes strong emotions in Goa (as in pockets of Portuguese-influenced Asia, including Kerala and Sri Lanka), the debate has got bogged down in clichés, sloganeering and polarisation. This has left little ground for a sober re-evaluation of the impact of the first European colony in Asia.

Past to present

Goa's leading English-language daily The Navhind Times kicked off the controversy a few months ago by offering its columns to those on both sides of the debate. It soon became clear that the two sides had simply studied different history texts. The Deshpremi Nagrik Samiti (Patriotic Citizens' Committee), with stalwarts of the anti-colonial struggle in it, bring up one phalanx. Others, like the former MP Erasmo Sequeira, maintain that the celebration should be accepted "in the right perspective". The good that came from this meeting - some might call it clash - of cultures must be noted, is Sequeira's view. Says he, "The Taj Mahal was built by the Moghuls and today we take pride in it as a great Indian monument, instead of thinking of destroying it as a vestige of colonialism."

There were those who began to pronounce anything Portuguese as suspect, and even a seminar on Portuguese laws became the target for protest. It was seen as an insidious attempt to glorify "anything and everything Portuguese". The Fundacao Oriente, a private cultural foundation which has been running its Indian delegation from Panjim for the past couple of years, faced more questions than it cared to answer.

The you-versus-me tone of the controversy reflected the polarisation that has afflicted many aspects of Goan society in recent years. Those with sympathies for the Bharatiya Janata Party and the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh see Portugal-bashing as a Catholic versus Hindu thing. The subtle insinuation is made that those who follow an imported religion are anti-national. The result of this has been that the minority Catholic community of Goa has had to go on the defensive.

"da Gama epoch"

There is no denying that Vasco da Gama's legacy touches all of Asia, including the Subcontinent. Statesman scholar K.M. Pannikar argues that a clear epoch of Indian history began with the arrival of Vasco da Gama in Calicut in 1498 and lasted till the British pullout in 1947. This "da Gama epoch", in his view, brought far-reaching changes which were overwhelmingly negative.

Among those who see a more benign, if not positive, legacy is microbiologist Nandkumar Kamat, who points out that the explorer "was an instrument of history" who catalysised "cataclysmic changes in India's agrarian economy". Without Vasco da Gama, there would have been no Portuguese trade pockets, no maritime trade, no import of foreign plants and hence no diverse resource base which presently is the mainstay of the Indian village economy.

American and African plants spread in India via Portuguese sea routes. Grafting techniques came to Goa first in the 16th century, and so did what are today among India's most useful plants. "The Portuguese imported about 300 species of useful plants to India, and Goa was their chief emporium," says Kamat. "Before Vasco da Gama, India did not cultivate sweet potatoes, tapioca, tomatoes or pumpkins. Think of it, the potato comes from the Andes mountains of South America. But India produces the largest potato crop in the world today, surpassing Europe." Cashew, chikoo, papaya, tobacco, guavas and pineapples entered India through Goa. Chillies - hard to think of Indian food without them - arrived on Portuguese galleons.

All this notwithstanding, the Portuguese legacy is probably even more crucial for a little outpost like Goa, which has had a unique experience even by the global standards of colonialism. It is often forgotten that Goa's colonial rulers were the first to come and virtually the last to leave. The toe-hold achieved in India in 1510 remained a toe-hold, but the Portuguese remained till 1961.

The impact of this long spell of alien rule left its mark in this state of a mere 3702 sq km area, and current population of 1.3 million. If Goa is considered 'different' today - and attracts so many tourists as a result - it is clearly due to its unusual past. The Portuguese touch is evident in the cuisine (including feni, the distinctive liquor), in the architecture, and the Goan identity itself.

Lisbon's rule opened the local population to international forces, which explains the adaptability of Goans worldwide, says noted Indo-Portuguese historian Teotonio R. de Souza, a Jesuit priest till recently. "They do not feel estranged anywhere." Adds de Souza, "Goa was the hub of Portugal's entire Estado da India. All their military, trade and missionary activities were routed via Goa, and this could not but leave a deep impress upon the local populations."

Peter Nazareth, a noted Goan writer based at Iowa University, also underlines this aspect. "Goans are cultural brokers, mediating between cultures. From the dawn of Portuguese colonialism, West met East in Goans; and after that, others could also meet this mix in Goans," he writes. At the same time, Nazareth believes that Goans have lost some of their creative energy due to the long stint with colonialism. As for the self perception of Goans, he believes that it is a weakness "when we don't know who we are and don't try to find out".

Colonial collaborators

Historians critical of Lisbon point out that anything the Portuguese want to disown is today ascribed to various "aberrations" in the country's past. The scholar de Souza also decries what he sees as the tendency to perpetuate the myth about the Portuguese being "good colonialists".

In a study comparing British and Portuguese colonialism, anthropologist Paul Axelrod writes that Britain made a conscious effort to transform the village economy for colonial ends - with canals and plantations - and also believed in indirect rule. On the other hand, Portuguese colonialism was oriented towards mercantilism. This consisted of owning small chunks of land from Mozambique to Timor, controlling trade, and extracting resources from the interiors. Goa happened to be the hub of Portugal's colonial network, and was one of its largest landholdings east of Africa.

For his part, de Souza says that unlike the British the Portuguese placed excessive emphasis on missionary activity. Lisbon's failure to keep pace with the industrial revolution meant that they had to follow a different tack than the British in the colonies. Says de Souza "This was why Portuguese colonialism was more 'homely' and church and kitchen-based, less machine-dominated."

Some hard facts have had to be faced, too. Delhi-based Jesuit priest Walter Fernandes points out that, in most cases, foreign domination was made possible by collaboration between local elites and the invaders. "Colonialism may be a thing of the past, but the collaboration continues; globalisation is an offshoot of the colonial age," he says.

"Some Goans, particularly from the upper strata, internalised (and accepted) colonial values. This has become so natural for them, that they don't even question it as something alien or out of place. It has become almost like a part of our own body," says Charles Camara, a Goan scholar doing research at Stockholm University.

But can the colonial ruler be blamed for everything going wrong today? One local paper suggested that instead of wasting their energy decrying the planned quincentennial celebrations, freedom fighters should bring "to the gallows" Indian politicians "whose corrupt practices are destroying India and Indians more than all the atrocities committed by the colonisers."

Clearly, blaming only the 'outsider' is not very helpful, and there is still scope for a critical re-evaluation of the region's past. "I doubt Goans would have been better off under some local (rulers like) sultans or nayaks, if the Portuguese had not taken over the place in the 16th century," says de Souza.

That is a point of view, but one that would be vociferously denied by all those keen on burying the Portuguese legacy. The debate is leading nowhere. East is east and west is west, said Kipling, and on taking stock of the legacy of a long-dead mariner, the twain do not seem about to meet.

Fredrick Noronha
January 1, 1998

TGF addendum: The historian mentioned in the above article, Dr. Teotonio de Souza has been severely criticized for using the "opportunity" of  re-confirming his Portuguese nationality and migrating to Portugal, a country and people he has severely castigated, and that too, on so many occasions.

To his credit, it must be noted that Dr. de Souza (TRS) appears to have recently modified his position. Apparently, living and making a living in Portugal has changed Dr. Teotonio de Souza's view of Portugal and the Portuguese. There is nothing like "Seeing is Believing and Knowing".

This is what Dr. Teotonio de Souza writes in his updated autobiography:

I do, however, owe an open apology to our former Portuguese colonizers. My early writings were too harsh on them and I tended to attribute to them more evils than those for which they may have been responsible. My feelings of hostility directed against the present-day descendants of the colonizers were certainly misplaced. However, I wish that they will understand it as my over-reaction to my own past and not entirely to theirs.

In the process of two decades of research and closer personal contacts with the Portuguese helped me to realise that there were our well-wishers among them, while many enemies of our people came also from within. This continues to be the reality till date. Some of my writings, including a couple of essays in this book, illustrate this point.

Positively, we owe it to the Portuguese to have exposed us to the wider world much earlier than many other people of our country and subcontinent. This does not apply only to the Christians of Goa, though these are at times mistakenly and maliciously regarded by some communally-biased political interests as the chief beneficiaries and even collaborators of the former colonial masters. Many of my writings, starting with Medieval Goa have thoroughly proved the contrary had often been true.

http://www.goacom.com/culture/biographies/tdesbio.html

TGF is pleasantly surprised that TRS has finally seen the light of the day. At least, he was man enough to admit his error in past absolute judgment. Good for him!

It must be noted however that TRS played a key role in whipping up anti-Portuguese & anti-Vasco da Gama '500' sentiment in Goa, in 1998. TRS set the proverbial ball rolling with his letter to the Goan press.

WHY ? ............. hmmmm!

 Was it because Professor Subramaniam's  version of Vasco da Gama was preferred for publication by the Portuguese Discoveries Commission?

That TRS letter (from Portugal) to the Goa Press makes zero sense unless it was meant to stir up anti Portuguese demonstrations in Goa.

That is exactly what happened, & Goa lost an important opportunity to accept her forebears - for better or for worse........and move on.

It is always good to see a change of heart, but TGF is reminded that Words spoken are like Egg Shells broken - they cannot really be repaired.

TGF
April 27, 2003


Professor Sanjay Subramaniam: people who have NOT 'grown up' beyond silly nationalistic reactions(1997)

José Colaço: VASCO DA GAMA - the maritime explorer 1469 - 1524

 

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