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Nodroinchem fest ( 1963 )
- Dr. Ramamurti Raut Desai
It was the summer of 1963. The school examinations were just over. Time to run around, play and do whatever adventures you can till the elder siblings studying in Bombay, Pune and Sangli come home on vacation. Once they arrive, you become an errand boy for everybody. Be sure they will not allow you to play or sit quietly and read. If not one, the other always has some work for you. So do your adventures before they arrive.
The village of Assolda has substantial Christian population. Half of them are the traditional toddy-tappers, known locally as 'renderos' and the other half being agricultural workers Known locally as Gaude. During my childhood I had been accompanying my father who was the regidor of the village to all functions in the Christian houses and hence I know all of them. So one fine day a toddy-taper's son asked me whether I would like to join them for the journey to the feast of Jesus Nazareth at Siridao, somewhere near Agacaim, I readily agreed. In his own words, he asked me," Nodroinchea festak yeta murey?". An adventure of this kind is what I just needed.
I made some discreet inquiries about the feast and the journey. The Church of Jesus Nazareth is at siridao by side of the river Zuari, between Agacaim and Bambolim. The villagers will travel by a large canoe (hodem) from Assolda, starting at 8.00PM previous night, and via river Kushawati, reach a place called timukh to enter the river Zuari and reach Siridao next day for the feast. Major hurdle however was to ask my mother the permission to go. She agreed reluctantly.
Though the time of reporting was 8.00PM, I escaped from the house around midday ( for my mother may change her mind at the last minute.) I hid myself in the house of Mr Luis, whose son had given me the invitation. I joined this family as people started walking towards the river bank carrying Torch batteries, Lanterns and petromaxes. The village was not electrified during those days.
A fairly large size canoe (Hodem) was anchored on the bank of the river. Not all people had arrived in time much to the annoyance of the hodekar (tandel). He was constantly reminding the people that the tide will soon turn and it will be difficult for him to navigate against the current of water. But our leader was waiting as more people particularly ladies kept on coming. While we were boarding the canoe, two more canoes passed the river, one belonging to Cotombkars ( from village of Cotombi) and the other belonging to Chandorkars ( from village of Chandor ). All going to the same feast.
The canoe of Assoldekars ( our village ) was last to leave. As we just started we heard a "Cui" from the Chandor side of the bank. A group of youngsters from Chandor had come late and missed their own canoe. Our leader was generous. He sent a small canoe on the other side and brought the group to our ship. The youngsters in this group were very good singers and started singing some melodies in Konkani no sooner we were out on the journey. It was already past 10 PM when we finally got going.
Of some 80 odd passengers overboard ( excluding the crew ), only three villagers were Hindus. That was myself, Mr. Prabhakar and Mr. Dattaram. These two were specially invited because of their navigation skills. The boat crew about six of them, Mr Prabhakar Mr. Dattaram and several other youngsters soon started rowing the boat with big oars called "Volle". They soon caught the rhythm and the boat speeded through the calm water and the darkness of the night.
The village of Curtorim on the left bank passed quickly. A railway train passed over the Railway bridge near Chandor as our boat passed underneath. The boys shouted and the ladies screamed as the sound of train passing over the bridge became unbearable. I just closed my ears with fingers to reduce the noise. Nevertheless it was a thrilling experience.
Our Navigators took utmost care as the boat entered the waters of river Zuari at the Timukh. Now we could see some of the bank lights as well as the lights of some Barges carrying ferromanganese ore traveling up and down the stream. Boats like ours which had no lights were signaling other vessels with the help of lanterns and shouts of "Cui". The barges in turn would signal with their electric lights. In the meantime the rowing and the singing continued.
More and more bank lights were seen as we traveled along Raia and Borim. Their reflections in the river water was a treat to watch. They moved rhythmically with the small waves created by movements of the vessels passing through the water. Soon we reached the Borim area. The lights of the vehicles traveling over the Borim Bridge could be seen from a distance as we started approaching it. A barge coming speedily behind us slowed down and in its head-light we could see the bridge. The bridge was blasted two years before by the retreating Portuguese Army ( Goa's liberation 1961) and a temporary bailey bridge was allowing only the light traffic to pass over it. So also the vessels passing underneath had to be slowed down for the fear of hitting the pillars. The barge behind us allowed our boat to pass under the bridge in good light as if a child was being shown the way by an adult. The barge soon caught the speed and overtook us.
Our speed had slowed down considerably as we were now going against the tide. The chief of the Tandels was constantly reminding our leader that it was his fault to have delayed our departure. Some good samaritans were trying to pacify the tandel but in vain. Finally one gentleman took out the bottle of Caju and handed over to the tandel. After sipping a little the gentleman cooled down and went around his work with renewed vigour.
The river started widening as we traveled through Racaim and Loutulim. It was already past 3.00AM by then. I dozed off a little. But I got up very soon as we were nearing Cortalim. Here the water is not calm like river but one feels the waves like that of the sea. Our speed had virtually reduced to zero as we were inching our way and the waves were dragging us back. The boat was also rocking up and down.
The East was already red and we could now see the terrain in the pre-morning light. It was the dawn of the day of the feast of Jesus Nazareth.
It was clear morning as we reached Cortalim. The ferryboats between Cortalim and Agacaim were carrying passengers and cars across the river as the morning traffic was already at its peak. People in the ferryboats were waving at us and we were replying. The mood of festivity was all over the river. There were many boats like ours and also some mechanized vehicles traveling towards siridon. Our boat was now rocking up and down with the waves of water frightening our fellow travelers. But now we could see the bank of the river and the Siridon village. The church with the large gathering of people could also be visualized. Further up one could see the vast waters of the Arabian Sea. Opposite Siridon one could see the villages of Cortalim, Sancoale, part of Vasco and the beautiful view of the Mormugao Harbour. The huge ships anchored in the harbour area looked very tiny from such a distance. The entire scenario was a thrilling experience for all of us.
It was around 9.00Am when we finally reached near the shores of Siridon. The boat could not reach the bank completely as the waters were shallow and there were lot of rocks. Our boat was anchored in the midstream and we were carried ashore by small canoes which were ready there for transporting people who arrived by many big boats like ours that came in from all over Goa. Some people came by the mechanized vessels and barges. They too had to be taken ashore by small canoes. While disembarking our tandel warned all of us in no mean terms that the return journey will start exactly at 12.00 Noon and he will not wait for anyone delaying the departure.
Once on the shore, people started changing into festive dresses that they had brought along. All our Christian companions lined up in the queue which was a long one to enter the church. I was told that after the church service there is session of "Pez" for everybody by the family of Dempos and I could join them. However I preferred to split from the crowd and walk along the various stalls and shops that you see in a Goan feast.
It was a very brisk business at the feast. Pottery. bundles of ropes, stalls of channa, sweets and what not. Bananas and Channas is all what I could purchase and having realized that I had gone too far loitering around returned to the bank of the river to join my fellow passengers who after having finished their purchases were ready to return to the boat. The small canoes carried us again to the midstream where our boat was anchored and almost everyone returned sharply by 12.00 Noon.
Our tandel had already hoisted the wind-sails of the boat as we were now traveling upstream along the tide and in the direction of the wind. There was no need to row so the youngsters started singing and beating the drums. Games were played and raffles were drawn.
On the return journey almost all the boats started simultaneously. There was a competition announced already between the boats of Chandor, Cotombi, Assolda and Shelvon as to which boat will return home first. Passengers of each boat were cheering their crew to go fast. After an hour or so when we reached Loutulim area the boats of Shelvon and Cotombi fell behind. Now the competition was between the boats of Assolda and Chandor. Though we were ahead of Chandorkars in the beginning, as time passed the Chandorkars were catching upon us very fast. By the time we reached Borim they came still closer and it was obvious that they would overtake us anytime. The cheers from their boat became louder and louder and the smile from the faces of the youngsters in our boat disappeared. Some young ladies started praying to Jesus.
We reached the Borim bridge with Chandorkars close behind. Now here our ship slowed further as The Tandels have to bend the pole bearing the sail to clear the horizontal part of the Borim Bridge. We crossed the bridge ahead of them but had lost the momentum. Only a miracle would now prevent Chandorkars from overtaking us. All of us now joined the ladies in praying to Jesus to perform a miracle as the Cheers from Chandorkars became loud and clear.
And the miracle happened. As the Chandorkar boat was crossing under the bridge, their tandels too had to bend the pole to clear the horizontal portion of the bridge. suddenly the pole broke into two and their sail collapsed, their boat coming to a virtual standstill as our boat kept on going further and further from them. The smiles and the singing in our boat returned. The drums started beating again as we passed by Raia and reached the Timukh to enter the river Kushawati.
The sails were brought down here and rows were used again to navigate the boat which finally reached Assolda around 6.00 PM where people had gathered around to welcome us with cheers and and fire-crackers.
Thus ended a beautiful childhood adventure of mine," The pilgrimage to the feast of Jesus Nazareth of Siridon"
March 14, 2000